[Moo] A little project I could use some help on.

N Harrison miriel.denedham at gmail.com
Thu Mar 5 03:23:36 PST 2009


Linseed oil looks good.  I pulled this from a site from a google search.

Finally, you will need to seal the wood surface to preserve the wood and
protect the finish you have created by staining. There are a number of
substances that you can use to seal a stained wood surface, and we will
briefly take a look at three of them: (1) oil, (2) oil and wax, (3) lacquer.


The application of oil to a natural wood surface preserves the original
texture of the wood and helps to seal it from outside moisture. The best oil
to use is boiled linseed oil which can be applied with a lint-

free cloth and will dry after being absorbed by the wood. You may need to
apply more than one coat of oil to get a complete seal, and you should
re-apply the oil about once a year to maintain the seal. Simply rub the oil
into the wood grain and allow it to dry. Do not brush oil onto the surface
or allow it to puddle or run. Excess oil can cake when drying producing
unsightly blotches in the finish.

Another method that can be used to seal the wood surface employs the use of
oil and paste wax. This will produce a hand-polished type of finish. Apply
one or more coats of oil as described in the previous paragraph, and allow
the surface to dry thoroughly. Then, using a separate lint-free cloth,
evenly apply a coat of paste wax. It is a good idea to allow the paste wax
container to remain at room temperature for a few hours if it is stored in a
cool place, to let the wax soften for use. Once the first

coat of wax has hardened (allow at least 24 hours), gently use a very fine
mesh steel wool pad to remove any excess wax. Repeat this process until you
achieve the surface finish you desire. Using a wax-based spray polish on
furniture that has been finished in this manner will help to maintain the
handpolished look of the finish.

A third, and very common method to seal wood is with the use of a wood
lacquer (shellac or varnish). These may be clear or tinted and are generally
applied using a brush. When applying a laquer be absolutely certain that the
surface is clean and free of debris or the lacquer will clump around it.
Always use long stokes and brush in the same direction. Apply the laquer as
smoothly and as evenly as possible and be careful to avoid runs. Most
lacquers begin to dry quickly, so avoid going over areas

that have already been coated. If an imperfection develops, allow the
surface to dry completely (24 - 48 hours), then use a fine-mesh steel wool
pad to buff the surface.

With a bit of practice you will be able to use the methods discussed in this
article to produce some very pleasant finishes on a variety of natural wood
surfaces.



http://www.essortment.com/all/woodsstainssea_rgon.htm

Hope this helps.  Ranulph

On Wed, Mar 4, 2009 at 7:06 PM, Joshua de Gastyne <joshbdeg at yahoo.com>wrote:

>
> Dear SCA Friends,
> I was wondering if anyone out there could give me some advice on a craft
> project I am working on. I have a walking stick that is about 5'3" in height
> that i have stripped of the bark and have gotten it to be pretty smoothe. It
> is to be a gift to a friend and I wanted to find out the best way to
> waterproof it without it looking gunky from polyurethane. My friend also
> wants me to afix a large amethyst point to the top of it and I have struck
> out on ideas how. I had been thinking of using leather to hold the amethyst
> to the stick. My question are these, is leather a viable option for it and
> what would be the best way to seal it?
>
> Regards,
> Josh
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Moo mailing list
> Moo at stierbach.org
> http://stierbach.org/mailman/listinfo/moo
>
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